It was exhilarating

„Recently, I had the pleasure—the privilege, really—of serving to a Burgundian winegrower friend a Hungarian 2006 Juhfark from the producer Lajos Takács. His tiny winery, which I have visited, is called Hollóvár.

Juhfark (literally sheep's tail, because of the shape of the grape cluster) is a white wine grape that, as best as I know, is grown almost exclusively in one small district in Hungary, called Somló.

Difficult to grow, Juhfark is a dry white wine of remarkable character that is—dare I say it—almost Burgundian in its depth and minerality. My Burgundian friend was dazzled by it, as was I. We were catapulted from our respective white wine ruts. It was exhilarating.”